Cashmere: A Legacy of Tradition and Luxury
Posted by Sladja van der Toorn on Jul 23rd 2024
As one of the most luxurious natural materials available, cashmere is highly esteemed for its exceptional softness, lightweight feel, natural thermoregulation, elegance, and sustainability. In recent decades, the globalization of fashion and textiles has expanded the market for cashmere. The rise of luxury fashion brands and the increasing demand for high-quality, sustainable materials have elevated cashmere’s status as a premium product.
Sourced from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, this prized fiber is primarily harvested from goats living in harsh, cold climates. Cashmere goats grow two coats: a coarse outer coat and a soft, fine inner coat that provides extra winter insulation. High-quality cashmere is usually harvested by hand using a comb that collects the fine undercoat.
China and Mongolia are the two largest producers of cashmere globally, contributing to approximately 75% of the world's production.
Why is Cashmere so Rare?
The rarity of cashmere is proven by the fact that cashmere accounts for only about 1.67% of the world's total fiber production (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations).
Cashmere goats are primarily found in specific regions with cold climates, such as Mongolia, China, India (Kashmir region), Iran, Afghanistan, Nepal, and Tibet. The number of cashmere-producing goats is relatively small compared to other fiber-producing animals like sheep. The limited population of these goats restricts the overall production of cashmere.
The quality of cashmere fibers, measured by their fineness and length, must meet strict standards to be considered authentic cashmere. This high-quality requirement further limits the supply.
History of Cashmere
The history of cashmere is closely intertwined with cultural and economic development across various regions, evolving from ancient times to a global luxury commodity. Although the name "cashmere" is derived from the Kashmir region of India, the fiber comes from cashmere goats found in several parts of Asia, including Mongolia, China, and Tibet. The Silk Road played a crucial role in spreading cashmere to Europe, where it was prized for its softness and warmth as early as the time of the Roman Empire.
During the 13th century, under the Mongol Empire of Genghis Khan, cashmere became a highly valued commodity. The Mongols used it for clothing due to its exceptional warmth and traded it along the Silk Road. European interest surged in the 17th century, with cashmere becoming a symbol of high fashion among aristocrats. The 19th century saw British traders, notably the British East India Company, bringing cashmere to broader European attention, making it popular among the upper classes.
In the 20th century, technological advances improved cashmere production, allowing for greater efficiency and consistency. Globalization and the rise of luxury fashion brands in recent decades have expanded the market for cashmere, with an increasing emphasis on sustainable and ethical practices. Today, cashmere remains a symbol of luxury and quality, produced through a blend of traditional methods and modern innovations.
The Highest-quality Cashmere Comes from Mongolia
Mongolia produces the highest-quality cashmere, which is characterized by its softness, warmth, and durability. Mongolian cashmere is known for its long, fine fibers, which create exceptionally soft and durable products.
“We are committed to producing unique collections of blankets and throws knit from hand-combed natural fibers exclusively in Mongolia. This ensures that our production benefits the Mongolian value chain, from the many herder families to the knitters with whom we partner,” – says Betina Infante, co-owner of Hangai.
Longer Fiber Equals Stronger and Softer Cashmere
Mongolia experiences extremely cold temperatures, reaching as low as -40 degrees Celsius in the winter. To adapt, Mongolian goats develop dense, soft undercoats, resulting in exceptionally luxurious cashmere.
This natural protein fiber comes from the Cashmere goat, specifically from the soft, fine inner coat that provides insulation during the harsh winter months. The quality of cashmere depends on several factors, including fiber length, fineness, and color.
Hand-combing is the Only Cruelty-free Cashmere
Hand-combing cashmere in Mongolia is a centuries-old tradition that ensures the highest quality of fiber.
During the spring molting season, skilled herders gently comb the soft, fine undercoat from cashmere goats, which provides superior insulation during the harsh winters.
Unlike mechanical shearing, this meticulous process does not stress the animals and selectively gathers the longest, finest fibers.
Pure Cashmere vs. Cashmere Blends
Pure cashmere is luxurious. It feels soft and offers excellent insulation, keeping you warm in winter. Cashmere becomes softer with age and, if produced from high-quality long fibers, rarely pills after being worn and washed. High quality cashmere will last a lifetime.
A blend will combine cashmere with wool, silk, or synthetic fibers. These cheaper fibers lower the price. Additionally, blends are often made with lower-quality cashmere that consists of thicker and shorter fiber. Buying a blend means you're compromising price for the things that make cashmere so sought after – its soft, lightweight, insulating properties.
Authentic, pure cashmere is up to 8 times warmer than sheep wool yet significantly lighter. To fully experience the benefits of cashmere, invest in items that are100% cashmere and sustainably produced.
Cashmere is Timeless
Beyond its physical attributes, cashmere represents a blend of tradition and craftsmanship, often woven into timeless, durable, and stylish pieces. Investing in cashmere not only offers superior comfort and elegance but also supports sustainable and ethical practices in the textile industry, making it a cherished material for those who appreciate quality and heritage in their home.
Sources
1. "How to identify quality cashmere"- Hayden Hill: https://hayden-hill.com/blogs/journal/how-to-identify-quality-cashmere
2. "Which country has the best Cashmere in the World?" - Pashwrap:
3. "Cashmere" - CFDA: https://cfda.com/resources/materials/detail/cashmere#:~:text=The%20optimal%20environment%20for%20cashmere,are%20over%20100%20million%20goats
4. "Fabric Guide: What Is Cashmere? Learn More About the Luxurious Wool' - Master Class: https://www.masterclass.com/articles/fabric-guide-what-is-cashmere
5. "Facts about cashmere"- Naadam: https://naadam.co/pages/facts-about-cashmere
6. "All about cashmere" - Sofia Cashmere: https://www.sofiacashmere.com/pages/what-is-cashmere
7. "What is real cashmere?" - Oats and Rice: https://www.oatsandrice.com/what-is-real-cashmere#
8. "All about cashmere" - Jet and Bo: https://www.jetandbo.com/blogs/all-about-cashmere/understanding-cashmere-and-how-to-identify-quality-cashmere
9. "The Cashmere Goat: Its History and Development" - This book provides a detailed history of cashmere goats and their significance in various cultures.
10. "The Story of Cashmere"—This article from The Woolmark Company explores the journey of cashmere from its origins to modern times.
11. "Cashmere: The Essential Guide" by William B. Helm - This guide covers the history, production, and market of cashmere.
12. "The History of Cashmere" - An article by The Cashmere Centre detailing the historical and cultural significance of cashmere.
13. "From Kashmir to the World: The Story of Cashmere" - Published by Cashmere.org, this resource outlines the historical trade and cultural impact of cashmere.