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When in the Mongolian steppe, the paradox of serene solitude becomes more than a page read in Endurance. Solitude, the concept that someone can be completely alone, feels inconceivable when in an American city. Coloradans get glimpses of solitude when in the backcountry, but in a matter of hours, a hiker can be enjoying a latte at Starbucks. In Mongolia, solitude permeates the steppe; you can drive a full day and only see smoke extruding from the cylindrical pipe of a ger. A